Fingers (pulley, climbing): returning to sport step by step

Why it happens

Crimp holds, sudden increase in difficulty or volume, insufficient warm-up.

Coming back in four stages

1. 1

   Rest from the holds that hurt, gentle pain-free hand mobility.

2. 2

   Progressive strengthening of the forearm and wrist prescribed or approved by your physiotherapist.

3. 3

   Return to big holds with an open grip, easy and short routes, no hanging on one finger.

4. 4

   Gradual reintroduction of crimps and difficulty, only one new thing at a time.

Move on to the next stage after 2 sessions in a row with discomfort of 2 out of 10 or less and no pain the next day. Each stage usually lasts 1 to 2 weeks, depending on your healthcare professional’s advice. For a pulley injury, no pain at the base of the finger when pressed the next day: that is the condition for moving to smaller holds.

Movements to postpone

• prises et appuis sur la main from stage 4

Strengthening exercises

• Tendon gliding exercises

  from stage 1 of the plan

  Slowly move from open hand to hook, to full fist, to flat fist and back. 5 cycles.

  To start: 5 cycles, 3 to 5 times a day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  Partial positions, without closing fully.

  Harder

  Hold each position for 3 seconds.

  Common mistakes

  • Pushing on when it tingles or goes numb: stop before.
  • Bending the wrist at the same time.

  Moving on

  This is a mobility exercise: keep it as long as it helps.

• Soft ball squeeze

  from stage 1 of the plan

  Squeeze a soft ball for 3 seconds then release, pain-free, keeping the wrist neutral. Increase firmness gradually.

  To start: 3 sets of 10 squeezes of 3 seconds, once a day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  Softer ball, half-strength squeeze.

  Harder

  Firmer ball, 10-second holds.

  Common mistakes

  • Bending the wrist while squeezing.
  • Squeezing into pain.

  Moving on

  When you can squeeze a firm ball without pain.

• Finger extension with a band

  from stage 2 of the plan

  A thin rubber band around all five fingers held together: slowly spread and straighten the fingers against the band, hold 2 seconds, then close gently.

  To start: 3 sets of 15, once a day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  No band, or a very light band around four fingers.

  Harder

  Two bands, or a thicker band.

  Common mistakes

  • Bending the wrist as you open.
  • Going fast and letting the band snap the fingers shut.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 20 is easy with no pain or tingling.

• Slow wrist flexion

  from stage 2 of the plan

  Forearm supported, palm up, lift the wrist with a light dumbbell then lower over 3 seconds.

  To start: 3 sets of 15, 3 seconds down, every other day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  No weight, or use the other hand to lift.

  Harder

  Slightly heavier weight.

  Common mistakes

  • Moving the whole forearm.
  • Lowering fast.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 15 is easy with no elbow pain the next day.

• Light-load hold

  from stage 3 of the plan

  Hold a wide edge or door frame with the fingers half bent, feet on the floor to unload, 10 seconds. Pain-free.

  To start: 5 holds of 10 seconds, 2 minutes rest, twice a week.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  More weight on your feet, larger hold.

  Harder

  Less weight on your feet, or a smaller hold.

  Common mistakes

  • Using a closed crimp grip too early.
  • Carrying on despite pain at the base of the finger.

  Moving on

  When 5 × 10 seconds is pain-free the next day: move on to the next stage of easy climbing.

• Hang with shoulder-blade pulls

  from stage 4 of the plan

  Hanging from a bar with your feet on a chair to take some weight: let the shoulders rise, then pull them down while keeping the arms straight. Hold 3 seconds, release gently.

  To start: 3 sets of 6, 3-second hold, 2 to 3 times a week.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  More weight on your feet, or a simple 10-second hang without the shoulder-blade pull.

  Harder

  Less weight on your feet, then feet off the chair.

  Common mistakes

  • Bending the elbows: the shoulder blade does the work, not the biceps.
  • Letting go of the bar suddenly.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 8 with feet off the chair is easy and pain-free in the shoulder and fingers.

The doses are starting points. Stay at 2 out of 10 discomfort at most, during and the next day; otherwise switch to the easier version or go back to the previous exercise.

Rehab’s advice

Very slow return: big holds with an open grip first, no hanging on one finger. Stop as soon as clear pain returns at the base of a finger.

What the Rehab plan does for this injury

The plan starts at 30% of your previous training volume and builds up to 80%, with a consolidation week every three weeks. If your discomfort reaches 4 out of 10, it stops and refers you to your doctor or physiotherapist.

In which sport?

• JudoStrong grips load the fingers: begin with light, short grips.
• MMAStrong grips load the fingers; begin with light grips.
• ClimbingAvoid one- or two-finger holds, favour open-hand grips and alternate sessions with rest.