Climbing: returning after an injury

Risks and order of return

Fingers, pulleys, shoulders and elbows take strong loads; resume on easy routes with big holds, and bring back small holds and bouldering last.

Climbing: big holds and easy routes first, with an open grip. Small holds, overhangs and the hangboard come last.

Bringing the movement back in four stages

1. 1

   Mobility, long warm-up and very easy slab routes, no crimps.

2. 2

   Easy routes with big holds in an open grip, short sessions.

3. 3

   Moderate routes, varied holds, no hanging on one finger.

4. 4

   Crimps, overhangs, dynamic boulder problems, usual difficulty.

Common injuries in this sport

• Fingers (pulley, climbing)Avoid one- or two-finger holds, favour open-hand grips and alternate sessions with rest.
• Shoulder (rotator cuff)Avoid dynos, dynamic moves and long overhead positions; resume on vertical routes.
• Tennis elbowAvoid very small holds and grip less hard; vary the holds and take breaks.

Preparation exercises

• Tendon gliding exercises

  Slowly move from open hand to hook, to full fist, to flat fist and back. 5 cycles.

  To start: 5 cycles, 3 to 5 times a day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  Partial positions, without closing fully.

  Harder

  Hold each position for 3 seconds.

  Common mistakes

  • Pushing on when it tingles or goes numb: stop before.
  • Bending the wrist at the same time.

  Moving on

  This is a mobility exercise: keep it as long as it helps.

• Soft ball squeeze

  Squeeze a soft ball for 3 seconds then release, pain-free, keeping the wrist neutral. Increase firmness gradually.

  To start: 3 sets of 10 squeezes of 3 seconds, once a day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  Softer ball, half-strength squeeze.

  Harder

  Firmer ball, 10-second holds.

  Common mistakes

  • Bending the wrist while squeezing.
  • Squeezing into pain.

  Moving on

  When you can squeeze a firm ball without pain.

• Scapular retraction (band row)

  Band anchored in front of you, pull the elbows back bringing the shoulder blades together, return over 3 seconds.

  To start: 3 sets of 12, 3 seconds back, every other day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  No band, just bring the shoulder blades together.

  Harder

  Stronger band, with a 2-second hold at the back.

  Common mistakes

  • Shrugging the shoulders to the ears.
  • Pulling with the hands rather than the shoulder blades.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 15 with a medium band is easy.

• External rotation with band

  Elbow against the body, bent to 90 degrees, rotate the forearm outwards then return slowly.

  To start: 3 sets of 12, 3 seconds back, every other day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  No band, or lying on your side without weight.

  Harder

  Stronger band, then with the arm out at 90 degrees.

  Common mistakes

  • Lifting the elbow away from the body.
  • Turning the trunk to help.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 15 is easy with no shoulder pain.

• Slow wrist extension

  Forearm supported, palm down, lift the wrist with a light dumbbell then lower over 3 seconds.

  To start: 3 sets of 15, 3 seconds down, every other day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  No weight, or use the other hand to lift and only do the lowering.

  Harder

  Slightly heavier weight.

  Common mistakes

  • Moving the whole forearm.
  • Lowering fast.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 15 is easy with no elbow pain the next day.

• Hang with shoulder-blade pulls

  Hanging from a bar with your feet on a chair to take some weight: let the shoulders rise, then pull them down while keeping the arms straight. Hold 3 seconds, release gently.

  To start: 3 sets of 6, 3-second hold, 2 to 3 times a week.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  More weight on your feet, or a simple 10-second hang without the shoulder-blade pull.

  Harder

  Less weight on your feet, then feet off the chair.

  Common mistakes

  • Bending the elbows: the shoulder blade does the work, not the biceps.
  • Letting go of the bar suddenly.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 8 with feet off the chair is easy and pain-free in the shoulder and fingers.

• Incline push-ups

  Hands on a table or bench, body aligned, lower the chest slowly then push. Lower the support over the weeks.

  To start: 3 sets of 8 to 10, every other day.

  Variations, mistakes and progression

  Easier

  Hands higher (on a worktop or a wall).

  Harder

  Hands lower (chair, then floor on your knees, then on your feet).

  Common mistakes

  • Lower back sagging.
  • Elbows flared too wide.

  Moving on

  When 3 × 12 is easy at that height: lower your support one notch.

The doses are starting points. Stay at 2 out of 10 discomfort at most, during and the next day; otherwise switch to the easier version or go back to the previous exercise.

Equipment and set-up

• Comfortable climbing shoes, not too tight at first.
• Harness, rope and quickdraws checked and in good condition.
• A reliable belay partner and a wall suited to your level.